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RepRapPro Huxley (Sanguinololu) + LCD SainSmart Problem

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Hi,

I wanted to connect the SainSmart 2004 Smart LCD Controller to my RepRapPro Huxley.

My problem is, that one pin is used. It´s the bed heater control.
(This pin is labelled D10: it has a 5V signal when the hot bed needs to heat up, otherwise 0V).
[reprap.org]

What do I have to do to run my Huxley without this D10 pin?
Or can I change it to a free pin? (Didn´t find a free pin)

Thx LG MaxTex

Re: RepRapPro Huxley (Sanguinololu) + LCD SainSmart Problem

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OK..weird design...

It looks like they have opted not to use the heated bed mosfet but instead use D10 to control a separate heated bed mosfet on its own board.. (probably to avoid issue with low quality mosfets and poor connector choices on the SL)

If it was me, I would take the wire that currently goes to d10 and solder it to the to the gate pin of the unused mosfet, this effectively moves it from D10 to D14
(this is the pin right above the label Q2 in this image
You can remove Q2 if you like, or leave it, it wont make any difference)

You then have to update your firmware with this new pin in your pins.h file.

Does this also Melzi v2.0 for Huxley?

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Because RepRap Pro already closed their shops, I want to buy Melzi v 2.0 here:[www.amazon.com]. Can I use it to Huxley?

LCD resets / blanks out when I touch the Ground

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I spent so much time trying to figure this out but every attempt failed.

When I switch on my printer:

• The menu on the LCD shows nicely
• Bed and Nozzle heat up OK
• XYZE move ok
• It can print with no issues

… however …

When I touch my nozzle, printer body (metal) or Ground with my tweezers, the LCD goes blank (light still on).
If it is in a middle of a print it will continue if not, pressing the rest button recovers the OS. Sometimes the LCD Menu corrupts, then I need to restart.

Another point … when I disconnect all peripherals but the LCD, it does the same when I touch the ground.

Please help! :S

Re: Does this also Melzi v2.0 for Huxley?

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Probably; but have you considered upgrading to Duet electronics instead, as RepRapPro did for their Huxley kits?

Re: Does this also Melzi v2.0 for Huxley?

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Any standard controller will work.

You just need to configure the firmware appropriately for the machine.

The only gotcha I know of is some have a external heated bed board, which need a 5v logic signal

Re: Does this also Melzi v2.0 for Huxley?

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Right now I still want to try Melzi because I'm used to this, for example, when the wiring, but if I have a new printer so I could try Duet or other boards.

I've bought it, but in a different place, but the lights in heatbed no flickering and the surface becomes very hot, also out smoke in mosfet.

Need help with sanguino

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Hi everyone

I've got a pusa i3 with sanguino board. Suddenly while i was printing the printer stopped and showed on lcd screen error maxtemp at extruder's thermistor. I changed thermistor, i tried to re upload the firmware but that issue continued to appear. Finally i replaced sanguino with an arduino mega plus ramps 1.4 and worked fine. Is there a solution to fix sanguino or is it dead ?

thanks in advance

Re: Need help with sanguino

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Sounds like analog to digital converter in the MPU died

If is an older sanguino with a large black rectangular chip, you can just get a new chip eg [www.emakershop.com]

I would advise getting from a reprap supplier, if you get it from a chip supplier it will not have a boot loader and you need hardware to put one on it.

If you have a 644p upgrade to a 1284p (its drop in replacement with more memory)

Re: Need help with sanguino

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The sanguinololu is exactly same with this. Because i am a noob with electronics, is it worthy to replace the chip, to buy a new one or replace with arduino ?

Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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Hi guys

I bought a kit from alibaba (geetech aluminum i3 prusa) and it was working fine (could do manual control over repetier host, homing, bed/extruder heating). The only thing that was missing was the extruder fan. This was not plugged in yet because i was missing a cable.

Now i get the cable, plug it in, and try to run the printer again. Now nothing works. The LCD barely lights up for a few secs then turns off again. I cant connect to the printer over usb either. And the 7805 is getting VEEEERRY hot. As in hot enough to burn myself.


Im assuming the 7805 is burned through, and this has to do with some USB 5V/7805 disturbances.

Would you recommend simply soldering out the 7805? Could this solve my problems?

Cheers



EDIT: Soldered out the 7805, still no connection to the printer....Considering just going for a RAMPS board.

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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Have you verified the voltage on the 5V pin?

How exactly did you connect the extruder fan? Any chance that you caused some short between 5V and 12V or 5V and GND?

For solving the USB 5V/7805 issues, see here.

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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Hey

I just plugged the cable into one of the two pin connectors between the stepper drivers, surely this is ok? I dont know how i would have produced a short

No I dont have my voltmeter on me at the moment. Ill try to check that

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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Quote

I just plugged the cable into one of the two pin connectors between the stepper drivers, surely this is ok?

Surely this is ok. I was more afraid that you were using the auxiliary 14pin connector - there, the 5V and 12V are side by side and can easily be shorted...

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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I ordered a new 7805 and will try to get that back in, then report back.

Is there a way i cant tell whether or not the microcontroller is functioning properly?
Also is it possible the ftdi chip was fried along with the 7805?

Cheers

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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Quote

Is there a way i cant tell whether or not the microcontroller is functioning properly?
If you have an ISP programmer or another Arduino (Uno, Nano, Mega ... using ArduinoISP sketch) you can try to upload a program via the ISP header. This should work even if the FTDI chip is dead.

Quote

Also is it possible the ftdi chip was fried along with the 7805?
Check if your PC detects a USB port when you plug in the Sanguinololu. If yes, chances are that the FTDI is still ok, if no ... :(

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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I do ideed have another arduino, ill check that out. My pc detects soething is plugged in but cant recognize what it is. It doesnt recognize it as a COM despite drivers installed

I think i may end up with a replaced 7805 and just say screw the usb interface. I should be able to do everything via lcd and sdcard

Re: Working, then not, now 7805 is hot ;(

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You could also try to connect a cheap USB-to-TTL converter directly to the TTL pins (RX0/TX0/DTR) that are underneath the USB plug. But first you should try to see if you can program the ATmega644/1284 directly via ISP, using your other Ardiuno as an ISP programmer (see here).

Verifying bootloader and/or firmware on Sanguinololou with ATMega1284P

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All,
I'm a newb to this, and have been messing with a buddy's GeeeTech 3D printer. It has a Sanguinololou board on it, and I wanted to load the Marlin FW. However, having already bricked one 1284, I want to make sure I do this right. Is there a way for me to verify what's already loaded?

Re: Verifying bootloader and/or firmware on Sanguinololou with ATMega1284P

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As long as you just the bootloader via serial over usb you cannot brick it.

If you start playing with avrisp's then you can brick it, but even then you would really have to try!

So basically just use the boot loader
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